I was a bit “pressured” to provide a review of the Ha Long Bay cruise that we took by one of the staff members aboard the La Regina Grand cruise that we took. Since I find those create a kind of biased view and also because it was difficult for us to find useful reviews when trying to make reservations, I took the time to write a lengthy and unbiased review that I posted later instead of succumbing to the pressure. I’m reposting that—with some additional edits—here.

Overall, we enjoyed the 2D/1N cruise with included transfers to/from Hanoi. Our room was comfortable for a family of three, which included two twins combined and a single twin for our child as well as a separate soaking tub and large walk-in shower. The floor to ceiling windows and balcony were also nice touches. Not knowing what to expect, we thought the food on the cruise was decent at all of the meals — not unlike eating in the main dining room of large cruise ships — selection though was more limited at buffets and main meals (although it looked the the cruise line did a good job of handling dietary needs). Likewise, the prices and quality for drinks were reasonable, especially as guests are a captive audience once aboard the ship. The staff were all friendly and competent.

To give you a sense of the day: 

We departed our hotel in Hanoi around 8:30am. We arrived at the port around 11:15am, with the journey including a 30 minute “comfort stop” at a pearl shop which was only a few moments from the cruise terminal. That’s a waste of time and also less than helpful for anyone on the 2 hour ride between Hanoi and Ha Long. 

Once at the terminal, check-in was efficient but a bit chaotic with departing passengers and arriving passengers transiting about the same time. After waiting about 30 minutes, we boarded another ship (larger than the ship’s own tender) to transfer to the actual cruise ship. The journey to the area where the cruising vessels are anchored took about 45 minutes and was reasonably scenic.  

Upon arrival (around 1:00pm), we were sent to the lunch buffet while the ship sailed to our first destination. After lunch, we were given access to our staterooms and time to prepare for the first outdoor activity involving either kayaking (2 people, row yourself) or taking a bamboo boat (6-8 people, local rows you) out through a cave and back. This was very enjoyable and took about an hour transiting from the ship to tender and then spending ~40 minutes doing the activity. After this, the ship moved again to its overnight anchorage spot where swimming off of the back of the vessel was made available as an option before happy hour (5:30-6:30pm), a cooking demo, and dinner (seating at 7:00pm). In the evening, there was a squid fishing activity that we skipped — otherwise, not a lot of post dinner entertainment options. Wifi on the boat wasn’t great either, but I didn’t get good mobile data service on LTE speed from our overnight anchorage. 

Morning could start early with the primary activity being a 7:15am departure from the boat to shore, followed by a 15-20 minute (each way) bus ride to a cave. Return to the ship by 9:00am for check-out followed by a brunch buffet at 9:30. Then it’s a repeat of the prior process with a transfer from the mooring location to another vessel for the journey back to the harbor. We arrived around 11:15 back on land and were immediately whisked to our waiting transfer van (great!) but then wasted about 45 minutes driving around Ha Long city to pick up another family at a different cruise terminal (less good). In the end, we returned to the hotel in Hanoi around 2:30pm. 

Our cruise had a rather diverse set of fellow travelers from Asia (including India), Europe, and North America in groups of various sizes (couple to large family gatherings). This obviously varies by sailing; just know that the cultural differences might be pronounced (one large group on this particular sailing was rather boisterous). 

If you have the time (we did not), I’d recommend taking a 3 day / 2 night cruise instead of the single overnight — there’s just a lot of time spent on travel logistics vs. actual cruising on the single overnight voyage. I’d also try to get away from the armada of cruise ships to more secluded experiences. We were clearly on the “tourist trail” not “off the beaten path” (or whatever the nautical equivalent of those are). That said, we’re pleased to have both done the trip to Ha Long Bay and sailed aboard Le Regina cruise lines. I wouldn’t call it a “luxury” experience as described, but it was perfectly serviceable and met our expectations.

We landed in Vietnam early on Monday morning and went through the usual airport arrivals process — all very smooth with our newly minted eVisas (which I almost forgot to get!). Our driver met us at the designated place and time. We proceeded to drive into Hanoi in what I have to assume was rush hour traffic, which wasn’t very bad at all.

First impressions were positive — well ordered traffic and good infrastructure. As we made our way into the historic city center, Libby and I grew a bit more apprehensive of my hotel choice as the world seemed a little grittier — perhaps more “elegant decay” a la Venice — with the addition of all manner of street vendors and narrow, crowded lanes. But, really, our concerns were for naught. The location was fantastic. The streets were vibrant. The hotel (Hanoi Pearl)—while not a Ritz-Carlton—was a fantastic value, perfectly located, and service as personalized and good as we’ve experienced anywhere.

Since the rooms were so affordable, I splurged on paying for an extra night on both ends to give us a guaranteed early check-in and late check-out. This also entitled us to breakfast, which is what we did first after our overnight flight. We then took a nap, grabbed a drink on the roof deck lounge, and prepared for our evening tour / dinner featuring the street foods of Vietnam.

Wow! What can I say about the cuisine?!? We wandered the neighborhood (probably never more than 5-10 mins from the hotel) eating all kinds of new and delish dishes. Unlike Chinese, Japanese, or even Thai food, our exposure to Vietnamese cuisine had been limited. Now we’ve been spoiled by the subtlest and most flavorful pho I could imagine, delighted by all manner of spring rolls, eaten bun cha (with a beer) like Obama and Bourdain, munched on a delightful banh mi que, and innumerable other dishes.

Tuesday started with a walking tour that I booked of the Old and French Quarter, which started by meeting at the local cathedral before heading to Loading T’s for coffee (amazing!) and a chat about Vietnamese coffee and history. As an American of our generation (born after the end of the Vietnam War, or as the Vietnamese call it, the American War), I found our expectations of and beliefs about Vietnam to be refracted through and colored by a lens of history that is very different than that of the Vietnamese people — not unlike our first experience to Eastern Europe in visiting Prague. For Americans, the Vietnam War was a seminal event for at least one generation that has rippled through our culture and politics to this day. For Vietnamese, the American War was but one of a 50 years long string of conflicts (involving at least the French, Japanese, French again, Americans, civil war, Chinese) and not even the worst of their experiences (that distinction goes to the famine during the Japanese occupation in WWII). I’m no expert on this subject, but it feels like the country has sort of “moved on” from it all with a sort of communism/capitalism that works for them.

Anyway, we cut the walking tour a bit short as Emerson’s stomach was upset — nothing serious — probably more to do with time and dietary changes versus any sort of real illness. By the late afternoon, everyone was up for seeing the delightful Thang Long Water Puppet show. Although performed entirely in Vietnamese, we were able to “follow the plot” of the various scenes and enjoyed the show more than expected.

Wednesday and Thursday were basically dedicated to Ha Long Bay, which is a place I’ve always wanted to visit. I have a separate post reviewing that cruise experience, which outlines it in detail. Overall, it’s worth the visit, but I’d suggest spending more time there and trying to get a bit further off the beaten track (or whatever the nautical equivalent of that would be — I kept thinking “this would be so much better on our own boat”). Back in Hanoi, we replicated our usual pattern of coffee at Loading T’s followed by a happy hour cocktail at the roof-top lounge.

Dinner was at a local Vietnamese place that had excellent reviews on Google — it was good but not as much as the street food / sidewalk vendors. One lesson we learned: staff in some Vietnamese establishments really pimp for online reviews, ask for you to mention them specifically by name, and actually tend to hover over you while writing the review on the spot. As a result, I would approach any tour/restaurant/activity with a seemingly disproportionately high number of excellent reviews with skepticism, especially if they repeatedly and consistently call out the same staff members by name.

On Friday, we were on our own and explored the Old and French Quarters. The primary highlight was a visit to the Vietnamese Women’s Museum, which outlined the role and contribution of women not just to the family and agriculture but also socially, politically, and militarily. Amongst certain ethnic communities within Vietnam the cultural is matriarchal, but I got the sense that equality for women is reasonably deeply rooted in at least modern (post-colonial) Vietnam.

After the museum, we had a late lunch at a local microbrewery (this seems to be a global phenomenon) with excellent beer and food, followed by a final trip to Loading T’s for their delicious cinnamon-flavored coffee with evaporated milk, and a stroll through the Old Quarter. We returned to the hotel to finish packing, get cleaned up, check-out, and leave for the airport around 9pm.

Today’s box score: +1 country (Vietnam)