I do think cruising with small children is an easier form of travel. The logistics are just more straightforward: your accommodations and consistently toddler-friendly dining travel with you. On balance, this is both good and bad. On the one hand, it saves time and effort spent on ‘everyday life’ activities. On the other hand, caring for a toddler forces you to live more like the locals (in terms of engaging in kid-friendly activities and the chores of daily life). That said, I wouldn’t hesitate to drive again.

The trip had far more highlights than lowlights. Indeed, I think every place we went is now firmly affixed to the “return” list, especially Bavaria and Poland. And, while we were lukewarm on Berlin initially, it has a lot of cultural venues that are worth exploring. Thus, while it’s not the prettiest city, it’s certainly worthy of another in-depth visit. Realistically, it will likely take us another 3 years or so to finish the 157×50 (err 39? 40?) goal. So, if we’re not back in Central Europe before then, I suspect we will most assuredly return soon thereafter.

Finally, this trip reminded me just how much we like experiencing new places. I think that’s been one of the great advantages of the 157×50 project’s goals. By definition, you’re forced to expand your horizons and travel more widely. Fortunately (or unfortunately), once you’re on that path the thrill of exploring becomes addictive and you find yourself thinking: “why not drive from Budapest to Turkey?” or “maybe we should island hop through Indonesia?” Of course, we’re not hostel-dwelling, backpacking vagabonds. We’re far more (and unapologetically) bourgeois by this point in our lives both by choice (why inconvenience yourself when you needn’t have to?) and necessity (traveling with a toddler, while I’m sure it’s technically possible w/ backpacks and in hostels, I think you’d have to be stark raving mad to do it). But, I digress…

Final score: +6 countries and +1 state for us; +13 countries and +1 state for Emerson!

Up next: the Caribbean over Thanksgiving.

Schloss Vaduz

The route to Schloss Linderhoff (one of King Ludwig’s famed castles and the only completed one) was somewhat circuitous. From Liechtenstein, we re-entered Switzerland, crossed briefly into Austria, drove into Germany, re-entered Austria, and finally returned to Germany a few miles before reaching the castle! The route was generally attractive with an especially enthralling section between Routte and Linderhoff, where we found ourselves skirting along the banks of an alpine lake.
Schloss Linderhof—inspired by Louis XIV and the palace at Versailles—was built on a diminutive scale for this rather eccentric king. Both the castle and grounds were fabulous. Unfortunately, the steady rain limited our ability to fully explore the grounds and outer buildings. We were, however, able to take the guided group tour in English (which, thankfully, Emerson handled very well).

Schloss Linderhof

After the castle, we made a quick side-trip to Oberammergau, best known for its religious theatrical production and skilled woodcarvings. According to Rick Steves, Oberammergau represents a tourist trap that is best avoided. I don’t know. Is it touristy? Sure… if not for travel, the village would clearly be a fragment of what it is today. However, we found Oberammergau to be charming and would have enjoyed a longer visit. Indeed, even though this was our second trip to Bavaria, we think an extended third trip should happen in the future—it’s really that nice. We’re also hopeful that the 3rd time might be the charm: a trip to Bravaria without rain.

In the late afternoon, we drove a couple more hours to Salzburg and arrived at our hotel around 6pm. We would have actually made it 30 minutes sooner, but we hit our only significant traffic snag (thus far) a few kilometers before the Austrian border (for our third and final crossing of the day!). After checking into the Sheraton Salzburg, we walked across the river and then briefly along its banks before ascending a little hill to reach the city’s best beer hall / garden: the Augustiner Braustubl. Dinner consisted of various wursts (mit senf), schnitzels, and pretzels along with “radlers” (beer mixed with lemon-lime soda) for the adults. As the rain had long since stopped, we enjoyed our delightful repast under the shade of the beer garden’s chestnut trees — a perfect ending to a great day!

An evening in Salzburg...

Today’s box score: +1 country (Liechtenstein)… +2 for Emerson!

We headed out of Luxembourg bound for St. Gallen, Switzerland via Freiburg, Germany. During our morning drive, we crossed the Mosel and Rhine rivers entering Germany, than France (crossing Alsace), before reentering Germany at Strasbourg. All told, the drive to Freiburg took about 3.5 hours.

Freiburg is an attractive “college town” located in/near the Black Forrest. While it lacks “major” sights and most of the town’s shops and venues were closed (it being Sunday), we passed a few pleasant hours strolling the streets and having a seafood lunch at NORDSEE (a kind of European, upscale “fast casual” concept — think: “if Panera Bread were a seafood place” and you’d be close…). Freiburg is also famous for its miniature canals (“bachle”), which were originally installed in the 1400s to minimize the likelihood of fires spreading.

Views of Freiburg -- the size of the Bachle is distorted for 'artistic' effect using a wide angle setting close to the subject. It's really little more than 18-24\

After Freiberg, we headed into the Black Forrest en route to Switzerland driving along the scenic B31 thru Titisee (which, might I add, is an awesome name for a town). Along the way, we stopped at a roadside stand to purchase some fresh cherries and strawberries, which were utterly delectable. Such experiences remind me that it’s sometimes the simple pleasures that most delight us. As with the rest of our drive, the journey through the Black Forrest and across northern Switzerland was rather scenic, often charming and occasionally sublime.

We arrived at the Radisson Blu in St. Gallen a little before 6pm. As usual with Radisson Blu properties, the hotel is fairly swank with a distinctly European feel. After getting settled, we walked a few blocks (through a mostly vacant downtown—still Sunday!) and selected an Italian place for dinner. Like the rest of dining in Switzerland, it was a little pricey (more than London; less than Stockholm), but the quality of our pizzas and pastas was on the mark. I also have to say that the local brew (we literally passed the brewery between our hotel and the restaurant), called Schutzengarten, was darn good: light yet flavorful and highly quaffable.

One final, happy note: Emerson was neither motion (nor otherwise) sick today. We think changing her seating position, along with me trying to consciously reduce body roll on the Chevy (it does not corner like it’s on rails), seems to have fixed the issue. So, we’re fairly certain that we’ll be able to finish the journey via automobile.

All in all, a good day!

Today’s box score: +1 country (Switzerland)… +2 for Emerson!