As I’d expected, Emerson was perfect on the flights home. And, we arrived in Tampa early on Monday morning.

Anyway, here’s the recap of our final day.

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Wow! This was a full day for us!

We disembarked Infinity around 8am. By nine, we’d transfer via shuttle to the main terminal building, collected our luggage, went through customs, and met Fred (our driver) for a private tour of BA.

We spent the next 6 hours or so visiting most of the amazing neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Our friends, Dick and Frank, commented after their visit on the diversity and distinctiveness of BA’s neighborhoods. How true!

I’m writing this on the red-eye flight home without the benefit of a guide book for reference… so please pardon the inevitable misspellings (I’ll try to edit / correct the post later). But here’s a brief description of how we spent our day:

We started in the elegant Recolletta neighborhood, home to one of the world’s finest necropolises (which includes the grave of Evita). Next, we visited many of country’s government buildings (the President’s Mansion–the ‘Pink House’ (Casa Rosada), the swoon worth Congress, and the imposing Supreme Court) and saw many embassies and fine mansions. We toured the city’s most elegant bookstore (located in an old theatre)–loved it! We visited Puerto Madero (where I finally found the choripan!). We then visited the colorful streets of La Boca–what a visual feast–with blocks of buildings painted in primary colors. Here was (briefly) saw a tango performance and bought some Argentine cookies from a store called ‘Havana’ (Argentina’s native / rival to Starbucks). We then traveled to MALBA (the museum in BA dedicated to Latin American–mostly modern and contemporary–art). we had lunch at the museum as well, and I bought a really cool book (though sadly, for me, entirely in Spanish) on geometric abstraction (which has a strong history in Latin America, especially as an extension of the international Concrete Art movement). After MALBA, we visited the Sunday antique market in San Telmo (BA’s oldest neighborhood)–very impressive (as are the surrounding storefronts with higher end antiques–seemingly a great place for Art Deco finds). In this neighborhood, Libby also found–shockingly (not!)–a shop that featured high-quality, handmade Argentinian purses. Needless to say, I had to figure out how to cram one of those into our luggage too!

All in all, our day in BA was perfect! Many thanks again to Fred (our ex-pat American driver)–I’ll post the link to his web site again. If you’re disembarking from a cruise in BA with a late flight home, I highly… highly… highly… recommend using Fred instead of a tour organized by the ship. With three people, it’s almost break even (but for a private–do whatever you want–tour!) when compared to the ship’s excursions. For two people, it would have been roughly $125… but again, this is for a private tour… no buses, no strangers, no wasting time seeing uninteresting / touristy crap. On a trip, time really is money. As such, Fred enabled us to see far more in our abbreviated visit, making his service a great value.

The airport was, well, and airport. The wait wasn’t too miserable (though I don’t suggest arriving too early for your flight, as check-in for your flight doesn’t open until 3ish hours before your scheduled departure time and there’s not really adequate seating in the departures hall). Delta, however, did a fine job once check-in opened, and we zipped through immigration / security due to Argentina’s “got a baby? go to the front of the line” policies. The Sky Club–actually an American Express lounge–was fairly crappy… with limited offerings and broken wifi, but at least it provided a place to comfortably feed Emerson and let her play.

Our flight–I’m writing this from somewhere over northern Argentina–departed roughly on time. Emerson was a little fussy prior to take-off (which seemed to bother Libby–I didn’t give a crap, as I consider it karma / payback given my number of miles with OABs… other angry babies). in any case, she was asleep before we were wheels up.

I’ll post some pictures of BA soon.

All in all, this has been a good–though not great–trip. Week #2 was markedly better with more cities (large and small) to explore. Also, I think this trip underscores a few facts about us, which I’ve always known yet been able to largely ignore. First, we cruise not so much because we love life aboard a cruise ship but because it’s an efficient (time/money/distance) way to visit a lot of new places (our current travel focus). Second, we are really independent travelers at heart… that is to say, we don’t generally/deeply interact with fellow guests aboard ship, and we prefer to forge ahead on our own when ashore, taking organized/group excursions only when more-or-less required (e.g., Egypt). Third, we really are unusual (and perhaps crazy) for attempting to travel with a child of Emerson’s age, as it does add stress, worry, and work to the trip. However, we’re so committed to travel that we’ll forge on with her, through the good (which is the majority) and bad (which is–thankfully–rare). With time, I’m sure it will become easier. And, in the end, I think/hope this will instill a love of travel and make her life more fulfilling/interesting, thereby paying dividends for years to come for her (and us).

Here’s a view of the waterfront in Puerto Madryn:

We returned to the ship for a late lunch. Since the weather was so spectacular, we ate our meal al fresco on deck aft of the Oceanview Café. This was very enjoyable, as we munched away while watching the sea lions on the lounge about on the pier (so much for needing to go to Peninsula Valdes, I suppose). It reminded me of our splendid summers in Europe, especially aboard NCL Jade in June 2008 in the Mediterranean. Here’s a photo of Libby enjoying a strawberry daiquiri (saucy, no?):

Tomorrow’s another sea day, which I’ll probably use to start packing (as our cold weather clothes won’t be needed any longer).

Our next port is Montevideo, Uruguay on Saturday.

Actually, Ushuaia reminds me—as crazy as this will sound—of Gatlinburg, Tennessee. But instead of being the “Gateway to the Smokey Mountains,” Ushuaia is the gateway to Antarctica. Both cities benefit from a proximity to national parks and natural scenic splendors. Both are filled with a similar mix of establishments and sights: relatively uninteresting minor museums/cultural centers, tacky tourist shops (selling all manner of themed trinkets and trash though of a “polar” vs. “hillbilly” theme), more useful “outfitter” shops (for those that came unprepared to trek to Antarctica vs. hike the Appalachian trail), and a number of low-end eating establishments. Indeed, both cities even offer sightseeing ski lifts! Thankfully, Ushuia isn’t overrun with international chain brands (which increases its charm), and it mercifully lacks a Ripley’s Believe It or Not.

Tonight, we’ll depart Ushuaia for Cape Horn, Chile. We’ll make a brief call—only a “technical stop” as passengers don’t disembark—at Puerto Williams (in Chile) in order to get our paperwork sorted out so that we are able to sail through Chilean waters. Given that we’ll be cleared by Chilean authorities, sailing through Chilean waters, and viewing Cape Horn (which is in Chile) tomorrow, I’ll have to consider whether or not we can (or should) count Chile as another country visited. While I was perfectly fine with a “sail by” of Antarctica (which is predominately made of water—which fluctuates in its state seasonally), I have more complicated feelings about what should constitute a visit to Chile, which clearly has a native culture and a permanent population of residents in its cities. However, had we flown into Ushuaia, trekked the 10 miles or so across Tierra Del Fuego National Park (or even more easily kayaked along its coast in the Beagle Channel) only to set foot on Chilean soil, and then immediately flown home: I could unquestionably have claimed a “visit” to Chile. Yet, we wouldn’t have really changed the nature of the visit in any qualitative way from what we’ve already done. That is to say, I would be no more familiar with Chilean culture or its wider geographical diversity. Moreover, we’d have skipped the brief visit to Puerto Williams, cruising the better part of the Beagle Channel, and seeing Cape Horn. This is why it’s difficult to precisely define what constitutes a “visit” to a “country” (which, as I’ve written previously, is also surprisingly difficult to define)—how much or little does one need to experience in order to have been to a place? Something to ponder…

Anyway, I’ll leave you with a picture of the Beagle Channel (and the Chilean Andes in the distance).

We enjoyed the splendid weather with mild temperatures (in the 60s) and a bright sunny, nearly cloudless sky. In the distance, we could clearly see the snow covered peaks of the southern reaches of the Andes mountain range in Chile. Argentina and Chile share the lands of Tierra del Fuego with the land border 20-30 miles west of Ushuaia. The land on the opposite side of the Beagle Channel is also part of Chile… so Chile is, needless to say, tantalizing close.

Libby and Emerson took a long nap this afternoon. Tonight, we’re going skip the buffet and return to the Trellis Dining Room for dinner. Wish us luck!

Tomorrow, we’ll explore the town of Ushuaia in more depth.

Amazingly, despite a nearly 2 hour delay in Atlanta after a 5+ hour layover (odd fact: we flew over Tampa again nearly 12 hours after first leaving home), we actually had a completely uneventful trip… in fact, in the almost 24 hours door-to-door (home to hotel) Emerson maintained perfect composure and optimal behavior. She slept for most of the flight down and was perfect otherwise. In fact, other passengers even commented on her, and I quote: “best baby on a plane anywhere, ever.” Libby also slept well on the almost 10 hour flight. I, however, went nearly sleepless. So, I watched “movies on demand” and the “moving map” (highlights included crossing the equator, the Amazon, flying over Bolivia, etc…).

On landing in BA, we were fast passed through immigration due to having a baby (Argentineans seem to LOVE little kids). We paid our expected $420(!) for tourist visas ($140 x 3 — thanks to Uncle Sam’s ‘welcoming’ policies, Argentina has adopted a “good for the gander” fee that’s a response equal to our fees for their citizens). After collecting our luggage (from the slowest moving luggage conveyor belt in the world) and leaving customs, we were greeted by Karina and Fred, the husband and wife team who owns/operates SilverStar Car (www.silverstarcar.com) here in BA. This was ideal, as we had a safe (baby seat included), comfortable, and hassle free ride in from the airport.

We’re staying at the Novotel, which is new, clean, and centrally located. We arrived at the hotel by 11:00 and were able to check-in immediately. The rooms are on the small side but very stylish. It’s in the Congresso area on Avenida Corrientes (BA’s theatre district… by all appearances safe, but not especially charming). After arriving, we took care of E’s noontime needs and had an afternoon nap. We then went out to explore BA, mostly in the area of the Microcenter. Overall, Buenos Aires is appealing. It feels a lot like a European city, especially one that intersperses “old world charm” with soulless contemporary structures and a pinch urban blight/decay. That said, BA feels comfortable and familiar… and the people are very warm and friendly (from the security guard at a grocery store to fellow patrons in a cafe).

Libby was able to see the Casa Rosada (and have her Evita moment).

After walking around, we returned to the hotel. Since Emerson had already had a long day, we thought eating in the hotel room would be best. And, as it happens, one of BA’s best known pizza places, Pizzeria Guerrin (established in 1932), is located right next door. Somewhat surprisingly, pizza is big in BA… and not just as a charmless, chain food phenomenon. Instead, like New York and Chicago back home, BA proudly claims pizza as a part of its unique food tradition. Empanadas (baked not fried) are also big here. We tried both the pizza and empanadas at Guerrin. Libby seemed to like the pizza (which was heavy on the cheese and included onion), but I was resoundingly unimpressed by our selection. I also found a bone in my chicken empanada. Yikes! So, while many argue that Pizzeria Guerrin is supreme, I’ll pass next time I’m in BA.

Tomorrow, we leave on our cruise.

Today’s box score: +1 continent (South America), +1 country (Argentina)