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Cruise Day #1: Buenos Aires

We left for the port at 10am. Check-in was smooth and easy. The ship is elegant and beautiful. Our cabin is very spacious with plenty of room for the three of us. So far, so good!

I’ll post more tomorrow when I’ll have more time, as it’s a day at sea.

Outside the Casa Rosada…

Crying “Eva Peron!” Needless to say, we made it to Buenos Aires.

Amazingly, despite a nearly 2 hour delay in Atlanta after a 5+ hour layover (odd fact: we flew over Tampa again nearly 12 hours after first leaving home), we actually had a completely uneventful trip… in fact, in the almost 24 hours door-to-door (home to hotel) Emerson maintained perfect composure and optimal behavior. She slept for most of the flight down and was perfect otherwise. In fact, other passengers even commented on her, and I quote: “best baby on a plane anywhere, ever.” Libby also slept well on the almost 10 hour flight. I, however, went nearly sleepless. So, I watched “movies on demand” and the “moving map” (highlights included crossing the equator, the Amazon, flying over Bolivia, etc…).

On landing in BA, we were fast passed through immigration due to having a baby (Argentineans seem to LOVE little kids). We paid our expected $420(!) for tourist visas ($140 x 3 — thanks to Uncle Sam’s ‘welcoming’ policies, Argentina has adopted a “good for the gander” fee that’s a response equal to our fees for their citizens). After collecting our luggage (from the slowest moving luggage conveyor belt in the world) and leaving customs, we were greeted by Karina and Fred, the husband and wife team who owns/operates SilverStar Car (www.silverstarcar.com) here in BA. This was ideal, as we had a safe (baby seat included), comfortable, and hassle free ride in from the airport.

We’re staying at the Novotel, which is new, clean, and centrally located. We arrived at the hotel by 11:00 and were able to check-in immediately. The rooms are on the small side but very stylish. It’s in the Congresso area on Avenida Corrientes (BA’s theatre district… by all appearances safe, but not especially charming). After arriving, we took care of E’s noontime needs and had an afternoon nap. We then went out to explore BA, mostly in the area of the Microcenter. Overall, Buenos Aires is appealing. It feels a lot like a European city, especially one that intersperses “old world charm” with soulless contemporary structures and a pinch urban blight/decay. That said, BA feels comfortable and familiar… and the people are very warm and friendly (from the security guard at a grocery store to fellow patrons in a cafe).

Libby was able to see the Casa Rosada (and have her Evita moment).

After walking around, we returned to the hotel. Since Emerson had already had a long day, we thought eating in the hotel room would be best. And, as it happens, one of BA’s best known pizza places, Pizzeria Guerrin (established in 1932), is located right next door. Somewhat surprisingly, pizza is big in BA… and not just as a charmless, chain food phenomenon. Instead, like New York and Chicago back home, BA proudly claims pizza as a part of its unique food tradition. Empanadas (baked not fried) are also big here. We tried both the pizza and empanadas at Guerrin. Libby seemed to like the pizza (which was heavy on the cheese and included onion), but I was resoundingly unimpressed by our selection. I also found a bone in my chicken empanada. Yikes! So, while many argue that Pizzeria Guerrin is supreme, I’ll pass next time I’m in BA.

Tomorrow, we leave on our cruise.

Today’s box score: +1 continent (South America), +1 country (Argentina)

After a bit of check-in trouble (I forgot Emerson’s infant surcharge paper ticket… had to buy another one: $158.60 idiot tax paid), we had an uneventful journey through security and boarded the plane on time. Emerson fell asleep before takeoff and slept until almost landing. How delightfully uneventful!

We had a late lunch at Phillip’s Seafood (our tradition in ATL). We then went to the Sky Club, where Libby/Emerson played and I spent the afternoon working.

Here’s a cool animation on YouTube that shows our itinerary:

We’re now about a month away from our trip to South America and Antarctica.

I have mixed feelings about this journey.

I really don’t expect it to be the ‘best trip ever’ or even anything closely approximating such an outcome. I’d call it ‘wildly successful’ if we 1) make it to all of the scheduled ports, 2) nobody gets deathly seasick, and 3) the roundtrip, overnight 9+ hour flights with a baby are basically uneventful and peaceful. I’d call it ‘successful’ if we just 1) make it to Antarctica, and 2) nobody is permanently injured (either physically or psychologically) by the journey.

See what I mean? Low expectations.

As for Antarctica itself, I’m not terribly certain it will be a much different experience than looking at glaciers in Alaska a couple of summers ago. Let’s be honest: we’re not granola-eating, tree-hugging, outdoorsy types who weep at the sight of mountain majesties (or fruited plains for that matter). I’m not judging the ecologically-oriented. I’m just saying: we’re city folk. I can’t really identify different species of penguins (and don’t especially care to learn). And, I’m unlikely to play the part of Captain Ahab standing out on deck for hours looking for marine mammals in some sort of gleeful reimagining of Moby-Dick with a buffet line.

For us, the primary allure of Antarctica is the exoticism of it all: a new corner of the earth explored, albeit very briefly and from the comfort of a cruise ship. If I’m completely candid, it’s mostly just a critical tick mark (and a pretty damn expensive / difficult one at that) on our travel quest for 7 continents, 100 countries, and all 50 states. As such, a large part of this journey will be the journey: sailing for days in some of the world’s roughest seas in order to earn our Antarctica badge.

Bad attitude? Perhaps.

I realize it’s less than noble to view a trip to Antarctica as the travel equivalent of eating my vegetables, doing my homework, and visiting the dentist for a routine check-up.

I am grateful for the opportunity to go to Antarctica.

And, if I’m luckier than I deserve, who knows? I might find it exceeds my expectations or even becomes a transcendent experience.

In the meantime, “call me Ishmael.”

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