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Homeward bound…

Well, we’re sitting in the fairly unimpressive Air France lounge waiting to board our flight to Atlanta. We leave here at 10pm and land in the US at 6 am. 8 hours on the clock; 16 hours in the air. I suspect this will be a very long night. 😉

Our drive back from RAK was fairly uneventful. I did manage to take the slightly more scenic E-11, which hugs the coastline. However, do to the ongoing haze / sandstorm… not a lot was visible. The lack of GPS once again was marginally problematic… I actually almost drove right through Dubai and into Abu Dhabi! Luckily, we figured this out and re-routed ourself back into the center of town.

Having some time to kill, we went back to the shopping district for lunch and to walk around a bit. Then we headed to the airport, refueling and washing (because I think they told me to at Hertz!) the rental car en route. After another “scenic circle” of the airport, we found the rental car drop-off location. Mission accomplished!

The duty free shopping at Dubai’s airport is ok but not great. After the Dubai Mall and hearing stories from folks, we sort of expected more. Fortunately, we had nothing to buy and no room in our little carry-on bags had we wanted to do so! Perhaps smaller suitcases would work for Greece’s austerity plan? 😉

I was tempted by the Millenium Millionaire raffle deal. For $278, you get a 1 in 5000 chance of winning a million dollars. I didn’t buy a ticket, but I think the risk/reward is actually pretty good. I can’t think of too many other ways to turn that little capital (at that level of risk) into $1MM US. Hmmm, maybe next time… :-)

Bye for now… we’re off to our gate!

Well, after nearly a sleepless night for me (to bed at 3am; up by 6:30am–perhaps I’m not over the jet lag?), we departed Brilliance around 8am. Disembarkation was about as painless as could be. We exited our cabin, grabbed an empty elevator, went down six decks, walked right off to the pier, straight through the terminal building, and into a waiting taxi. Cabin to taxi: maybe 5 minutes? Wonderful.

We then headed to the airport to pick-up our car from Hertz.

Confession time: despite a calm exterior, I developed some mild trepidation about the day’s journey. First, while the trip has generally been hazy due to wind, today we awoke to a fairly significant sandstorm. Visibility wasn’t too bad in Dubai, but I had no idea what conditions we might eventually face. Second, Hertz didn’t have any available GPS units (despite my requesting one). We had a couple of low fidelity maps with us, but Libby’s not much of an experienced navigator. No matter, I could have had Ferdinand Magellan as my navigator — the maps were pretty much useless. So, I made a lot of statements like “which exit should I take from this roundabout? I don’t see a sign.” Who knows!

Thus, I drove from the Dubai Airport to the Hilton Ras Al-Khaimah pretty much by instinct. How’d I do? Well, other than circling the airport once when trying to exit and making a u-turn to take a different route through downtown RAK (which I later learned wasn’t required), I faired very well. Somehow, I lost the E-11 route in Sharjah (which would have been closer to the coast, more scenic, and leisurely), but I managed to easily find and take the E-311 Emirates Road (which is the preferred route according to Google maps anyway). We sped through the desert in our Volvo S60, passing through three new emirates in about an hour (Sharjah, Ajman, and Umm Al Quwain) before arriving in RAK. What a haul of countries! Too bad they all looked (other than Sharjah close to Dubai) nearly indistinguishable. Hopefully, I’ll be able to keep us on the E-11 tomorrow when returning to Dubai, and we’ll see a bit more of each one.

Driving to RAK... that isn't a cloudy sky. That's sand!

Driving to RAK... that isn't a cloudy sky. That's sand!

Here’s a map that I updated from Google that highlights our route (in yellow) and helps to better show the boundaries (outlined in orange) between the various emirates (circled in red) that we drove through today – from Sharjah, through tiny Ajman, then Umm Al Quwain, and eventually into Ras Al-Khaimah.

Dubai to RAK -- four 'countries' in one day!

Dubai to RAK -- four 'countries' in one day!

The Hilton Ras Al-Khaimah Resort and Spa seems idyllic. We were upgraded to a Junior Suite out in the resort’s villa section, which line a private (suites only) beach that’s shaped like a crescent moon. We have a unit—decorated in a very charming Arabesque style—with a separate living room and master bedroom, as well as a large balcony overlooking the Gulf. We can literally walk down the stairs and right out onto the beach. As I’m writing this post, I’m listening to waves crash along the shore through the open veranda doors, while Libby’s reading from her Kindle on the balcony.

Our villa (#825) at Hilton RAK Resort and Spa

Our villa (#825) at Hilton RAK Resort and Spa

Master bedroom in villa...

Master bedroom in villa...

View from villa's balcony...

View from villa's balcony...

There’s an upscale, beachside bar for drinks and snacks about a hundred yards from our villa, where we had an excellent light lunch and perhaps the best iced coffee of my life (made with coffee flavored ice cream). We strolled around the resort and walked in the (surprisingly chilly) surf. While writing the post, we just had a fruit basket delivered – a welcome for being a HiltonHonors member. I expected the resort to be nice, but this is positively blissful for less than $175/night.

Tonight, we ate at Al Bahar, the resort’s seafood restaurant (one of a half dozen or more choices on the property), up near the hotel’s main saltwater and freshwater pools, which meander through a flower and palm tree filled courtyard. Like the rest of the food we’ve had at the resort, it was surprisingly good. Here’s a photo of my red snapper on a bed of onion and pumpkin:

Yum!

Yum!

Today’s box score: +4 countries (Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, and Ras Al-Khaimah, UAE)

We arrived early in Dubai (Libby and I were still asleep). Since we’d already spent time here and mostly planned on checking out downtown, we slept in (not a bad thing since we’ve only been going to bed around 1am) and left Port Rashid in the late morning. We headed straight downtown to the Dubai Mall (the world’s largest mall
 having superseded the Mall of the Emirates, which is also in Dubai) and Burj Khalifa (the world’s tallest building at 2,716 ft). Noticing a theme here?

I’m not sure what to say about the Dubai Mall. How to describe it? Take Madison Ave. in New York, New Bond Street in London, Rue d’Rivoli in Paris, and the Galleria in Milan. Pour on top the Mall of the America in Minneapolis. Put it all under one roof. That’s merely a start to the Dubai Mall! It was both amazing and horrifying. A microcosm of arguably everything that’s both right and wrong with Dubai (and the wider world). Be it the McDonaldization of society, the implications of globalization, or the excesses of consumerism – the Dubai Mall speaks to it all (and then some). But, it’s also a testament to the power of audacious goals, the consumer choices provided by free market capitalism, and the benefits of a little (or a lot) of hedonistic pleasure.

Dubai Mall, Interior

Dubai Mall, Interior

The surrounding downtown area, including the Burj Khalifa, provide similar examples of breathtaking excess: awesome, audacious, and astounding. All built to be the largest, greatest, and grandest – like nothing else in the world. But, is it sustainable long-term?

Burj Khalifa -- hazy day, which matters at that height!

Burj Khalifa -- hazy day, which matters at that height!

We returned to the ship, packed our bags (more of a challenge with the side-effects from “retail therapy” upon us), had dinner in the Windjammer, and went to the Farewall Show.

Tomorrow will be a big day. We’ll pick up a car and drive to R.A.K., passing through three other emirates en route. That means we’ll set a personal record: four new ‘countries’ in a single day! Seems fitting to do that from Dubai
 😉

We arrived in Abu Dhabi a little before 8am this morning. We headed out almost immediately for a visit to the Sheik Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque, generally known more simply at the Sheik Zayed or Grand Mosque. It is named for the late Sheik Zayed, the much beloved ‘father’ of the UAE, who’s buried on the site of the mosque in a surprisingly modest grave and for whom the Quran is read 24/7/365 by attendants.

The Grand Mosque is epic in its scale, capable of holding 40,000 worshipers. Covered in gleaming white marble, it is topped with 80 gold gilded domes, decorated with intricate floral motifs made from semi-precious stones, and illuminated by massive (9 ton!) crystal chandeliers. The mosque also houses to the world’s largest Persian carpet (which required the skilled labor of 2,000 craftsmen for two years to complete).

Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

Grand Mosque Interior, Abu Dhabi

Grand Mosque Interior, Abu Dhabi

After the mosque, we traveled along Abu Dhabi’s seaside corniche, past the impressive Emirates Palace (which is actually a luxury hotel) and to the Marina Mall (home to nearly 400 retail stores
 hence Libby’s other religious experience for the day). 😉

Although the UAE’s largest and wealthiest emirate, Abu Dhabi currently feels a little like ‘Dubai-lite’ to me. As with the rest of the emirates only 50 years ago, Abu Dahbi was little more than a small fishing and pearling village. The discovery of ‘black gold’ in 1958 brought wealth and development, as evidenced by a number modest downtown high-rises of 1960’s/70’s style architecture (not an especially high point aesthetically, reminding me of the ‘Brutalism’ found at home on the University of South Florida’s earliest buildings from that same period). However, Abu Dhabi’s skyline continues to evolve with newer, grander, and more magnificent designs seemingly sprouting up on every street corner. Most excitingly, Abu Dhabi seeks to become a cultural—rather than just commercial leader—with outposts of the Guggenheim and Louvre among five new world-class museums and performing art centers now under construction.

I look forward to returning to Abu Dhabi in the future, as I suspect that we’ll eventually grow to prefer it to Dubai.

Tonight, we returned to Chops Grille for dinner. Standouts this evening were my appetizer (Asian-style spicy tuna—raw, finely diced; perfectly garnished on sesame points) and Libby’s dessert (a decadent and upscale take on Mississippi Mud Pie).

20120318-002641.jpg

After dinner, we went to a headliner show featuring soul music. The performer really worked hard, had a decent enough voice, and good stage presence. But, honestly, he struggled to have this audience (with—literally—a boatload of various European nationalities) ‘get’ his show.

Tomorrow, we return to Dubai for an overnight visit before disembarking. Then, it’s off to the airport to pick-up the rental car and away to the four remaining emirates we go!

Today’s box score: +1 country (Abu Dhabi, UAE)

Cruise Day #5 – At Sea

Today, we enjoyed a lazy day at sea, spending the better part of the day relaxing on our sumptuously oversized balcony. It would be a perfect, secluded oasis were it not for the chain-smoking Germans in the cabin next door. But, such is life. The sea day is a nice break, as we’ve been pretty much ‘go, go, go’ this entire trip. Unfortunately, Brilliance offers little in truly interesting or educational ‘enrichment’ activities—it’s the usual mix of “how to make towel animals,” belly-flop competitions, and bingo, whereas we’re more of the lecture-going sort. In any case, I don’t have a lot to report on today


So, I’ll turn a little more reflective on the experience to date, as Libby and I have conversed at length about it.

We always viewed this trip as a bit of an adventure. While it’s certainly not unheard of for Americans to travel to countries in the Gulf (especially Dubai in the UAE), it’s clearly not a popular or common tourist destination for those from the USA. In general, Americans (us included) are fairly ignorant about the countries and peoples that make up the Arabian Peninsula. There’s a tendency to view them one-dimensionally and as a group, often in less than flattering ways. I’m sure this has only become worse since September 11, 2001, because—let’s be honest—prior to that date few Americans even gave the Middle East a passing thought on a regular basis and those events certainly weren’t going to engender goodwill from the ‘average’ American. So, it’s little wonder that we consistently heard messages of “you’re going where on vacation?,” “why would you go there of all places?,” or “aren’t you worried about insert concern?” prior to our departure.

Interestingly, our British compatriots seem to view this destination as “just another holiday in the sun.” On the one hand, that’s refreshing to see. Clearly, they got the memo that Oman isn’t Yemen, and the UAE isn’t Saudi Arabia. The British generally strike me as more globally aware (look no further than what’s ‘news’ on the BBC vs. CNN). Perhaps, it’s a function of the Commonwealth and/or other vestiges of their colonial past. On the other hand, their blasĂ© attitude (I’m, of course, generalizing here) about the cultural norms in these more liberal Gulf states has left me unimpressed. We’ve also noticed they’re as prone to whining about differences and expecting things to be like they are ‘at home’ as Americans (which is ironic, since RCI is predominately a North American cruise line). In general, while we love visiting Britain (especially London), I prefer being ashore with the Arabs on this trip. Needless to say, we won’t be sailing on P&O anytime soon. :-)

But, I digress


When we first started contemplating this travel project there were countries we assumed we’d ‘never’ visit, including whole regions that we presumed that we’d skip (the Middle East, along with other parts of central Asia and most of Africa, featured prominently). With more and wider travel experiences, we’ve learned to—as the clichĂ© goes—‘never say never’ again. Iran, Somalia, North Korea? Certainly not now, but why not some day? One needn’t look further than Russia, countries in Eastern Europe, or Oman as places that wouldn’t have been practical (for real or imagined reasons) within our lifetime, which we’ve already visited.

Yet, going into this trip, our expectations were modest. It seemed like such a foreign destination. It reminded me our first visit behind the former “Iron Curtain” to Prague. Growing up at the end of the Cold War, I sort of half expected the Czech Republic to be in shades of gray, colorless like concrete. Of course, Prague is charming and beautiful (as well as rendered in vibrant hues).

Now that we’re here, Libby and I find the UAE and Oman one of the more comfortable places to travel. We’re not rule-breakers or hard-partiers. We feel utterly safe and welcomed. While our politics lean to the left, we’re basically conservative people in our lifestyle: a traditional, married couple. Nobody will confuse us with cast members of Jersey Shore. We try to demonstrate respect and goodwill, and we’ve had it returned to us ten-fold.

All in all, it’s one of the most enlightening trips we’ve ever taken


Clearly, this handful of days won’t make us experts about this region. If anything, I’m more aware now of what I still don’t know. But, I suspect that knowing the magnitude of my ignorance is a step in the right direction.

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