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We awoke to sunny skies in our chilly hotel room. After getting dressed and sorting out our packing, we headed out for a coffee and morning stroll. This morning, we headed down to the pier to see where the ships were so docked. Carnival Victory was docked right the heart of Old San Juan, while Adventure of the Seas and Caribbean Princess were located across the channel at the Pan American pier (so much for walking to the ship).

We strolled along the waterfront. I have to say, we were once again struck by the beauty and charm of San Juan! It’s much nicer than we’d expected. Indeed, I think I’d actively look to sail out of this port again. Anyway, we walked to the Cathedral and enjoyed a bit of the Easter mass, which was broadcast into the plaza on loud speakers. It all felt right: San Juan is a good place to visit on Easter.

After returning to the hotel to checkout, we had lunch at the Parrot Club. We enjoyed some riffs on traditional Puerto Rican cuisine: chicken pinchos, mofongo (a kind of plantain and yuca dumpling), and fried yuca. I also had a local beer (Medella — unremarkable) and a sort of Caribbean quesadilla (pulled pork w/ tropical fruit salsa).

Following lunch, we hopped in a taxi for the 15 minute drive to ship. Check-in wasn’t supposed to start until 2:00. We arrived a bit early at 1:40ish. But, operations were already underway. We checked in without a wait and were aboard the ship well before 2:00. Our cabin, B201–a forward balcony–was also ready.

I’ll write more about the ship later. A couple of quick notes: the decor is a little underwhelming compared to what we’ve seen on same vintage or newer RCI, HAL, and Celebrity ships. The upper outside decks, however, are very impressive with a range of pools and seemingly ample space. The casual dining options look good (yet to eat there) and have excellent operating hours. We also found the soda package and specialty coffee cards to be of excellent value on Princess! Upon embarkation, we also booked ourselves in all of the speciality restaurants, plus reserved “ultimate balcony dining” for tomorrow night.

Tonight, we had Easter dinner in the Island Dining Room on Deck 5. With programs like Anytime Dining, we’ve found that service can be lacking. Not tonight! This was some of the most efficient and helpful service we’ve ever had on a cruise. Better still, the food ranged from good to excellent. We both started with a twice-baked goat cheese tart (wonderful). Libby then had a salad (fine), and I enjoyed a bowl of mushroom soup (very good). We then had a wonderful strawberry and thyme sorbet (excellent). Libby’s entree was a cocoa-crusted pork tenderloin (good flavor but overcooked) with truffle mashed potatoes (excellent). I had diver scallops with roasted red potatoes (good). Our desserts and coffee were also very good (Libby had a fudge cake; I had a trio of delights). Indeed, this was probably the beat regular coffee in a main dining room on any cruise ship.

Well, we’re off to the muster drill (at 8pm!). I’ll leave you with photos of the ship’s Easter decorations and my trio of sweets:

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San Juan

We arrived in San Juan a little early and since we had no checked luggage, we zipped out of the airport and to our hotel in Old San Juan.

We’re staying at the Cervantes. It was well received on TripAdvisor, located in an ideal spot, and available at a great rate. Overall, we like the hotel. Our room is modest in size, but seemingly recently refurbished and in good condition. Our only complaint — the air conditioning is too good and centrally managed. As a result, we’re freezing in the tropics! Yes, that’s right. I’ve actually found a place too cold even for me.

After checking into the hotel and having a brief snack around the corner, we went out exploring Old San Juan. We walked for about four hours. We visited San Jose Church (2nd oldest in the Western Hemisphere), El Morro (as well as San Cristobal) fort, watched the locals fly kites in the winds coming off the ocean, spent a little time popping in and out of shops / galleries, and strolled along the city walls. All in all, Old San Juan is high on the Caribbean sightseeing hit parade. It feels a little like a smaller-scale Buenos Aires or Montevideo. Nice!

We returned to our hotel, freshened up, and discussed options for dinner. Most of Old San Juan’s highest rated dining venues are within a block or two of our hotel… so, we had plenty of choices. We ultimately settled on Toro Salao, a tapas bar. We sat outside and ordered a refreshing, small pitcher of rose sangria. We ate plates of a warm and creamy crab and artichoke dip, roasted potatoes, and mahi mahi fritters w/ caramelized onions and a garlic/lemon aioli. All were good to very good. We then turned our attention to a sweet ending. Wow! I ordered cinnamon dusted churros w/ chocolate, nuts, and a homemade ice-cream (tasted like butter pecan). Excellent! Libby order a hot chocolate cake topped with vanilla ice cream, sour cherries, and candied orange zest. Her cake was “hot” in two ways: it was warm with a gooey center and it had a slight hint of cayenne pepper. It was, without a doubt, one of our all-time favorite desserts!

After our leisurely al fresco dinner, we returned to our freezer, err hotel room, and retired early.

Here’s a photo of one of the art galleries we visited:

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Today’s box score: +1 “country” (Puerto Rico)

On AirTran!

Yes, I’m not on Delta!

AirTran (unlike Delta) was dirt cheap and direct to San Juan. So, I (temporarily) dropped my allegiance. Think this means no upgrades for us?

Heck no! $49/pp. buys you the same hard earned perks I have on Delta: access to wide-seated, leg-streching splendor.

Too bad Southwest will take AirTran over and ruin what’s a very good second rate airline. šŸ˜‰

Away We Go! (Again)

Libby and I will be off to the Caribbean in two days!

This will be our solo (sans Emerson) trip for the year. Since she’s used to happily hanging out at ā€œClub Gramā€ anyway, we don’t think our brief absence will be much of a problem for her. Plus, the kid has already been to South America and Antarctica this year, will be heading with us to Europe this summer, and will (obviously) join us on the annual Thanksgiving family Caribbean cruise. That’s a lot of passport stamps for a toddler!

Anyway, we’re moderately excited about this trip (the Caribbean only has so much allure, though last Thanksgiving’s cruise was one of my all-time favorites). The best part is that we’ll hit six (6) new countries / ā€œcountriesā€: Puerto Rico, US Virgin Islands, Dominica, Grenada, Bonaire, and Aruba.

We’ll be sailing aboard the Caribbean Princess (our first time on Princess).

Here’s a map and link to the itinerary:

Caribbean Princess 04/24/11

So, I’m a little late in posting this update. I wrote it while en route back from BA, but I wasn’t able to post it in Atlanta due to a short layover. And, upon arriving in Tampa, I was busy getting caught up with work and preparing for my flight out today (which I’m now on).

As I’d expected, Emerson was perfect on the flights home. And, we arrived in Tampa early on Monday morning.

Anyway, here’s the recap of our final day.

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Wow! This was a full day for us!

We disembarked Infinity around 8am. By nine, we’d transfer via shuttle to the main terminal building, collected our luggage, went through customs, and met Fred (our driver) for a private tour of BA.

We spent the next 6 hours or so visiting most of the amazing neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Our friends, Dick and Frank, commented after their visit on the diversity and distinctiveness of BA’s neighborhoods. How true!

I’m writing this on the red-eye flight home without the benefit of a guide book for reference… so please pardon the inevitable misspellings (I’ll try to edit / correct the post later). But here’s a brief description of how we spent our day:

We started in the elegant Recolletta neighborhood, home to one of the world’s finest necropolises (which includes the grave of Evita). Next, we visited many of country’s government buildings (the President’s Mansion–the ‘Pink House’ (Casa Rosada), the swoon worth Congress, and the imposing Supreme Court) and saw many embassies and fine mansions. We toured the city’s most elegant bookstore (located in an old theatre)–loved it! We visited Puerto Madero (where I finally found the choripan!). We then visited the colorful streets of La Boca–what a visual feast–with blocks of buildings painted in primary colors. Here was (briefly) saw a tango performance and bought some Argentine cookies from a store called ‘Havana’ (Argentina’s native / rival to Starbucks). We then traveled to MALBA (the museum in BA dedicated to Latin American–mostly modern and contemporary–art). we had lunch at the museum as well, and I bought a really cool book (though sadly, for me, entirely in Spanish) on geometric abstraction (which has a strong history in Latin America, especially as an extension of the international Concrete Art movement). After MALBA, we visited the Sunday antique market in San Telmo (BA’s oldest neighborhood)–very impressive (as are the surrounding storefronts with higher end antiques–seemingly a great place for Art Deco finds). In this neighborhood, Libby also found–shockingly (not!)–a shop that featured high-quality, handmade Argentinian purses. Needless to say, I had to figure out how to cram one of those into our luggage too!

All in all, our day in BA was perfect! Many thanks again to Fred (our ex-pat American driver)–I’ll post the link to his web site again. If you’re disembarking from a cruise in BA with a late flight home, I highly… highly… highly… recommend using Fred instead of a tour organized by the ship. With three people, it’s almost break even (but for a private–do whatever you want–tour!) when compared to the ship’s excursions. For two people, it would have been roughly $125… but again, this is for a private tour… no buses, no strangers, no wasting time seeing uninteresting / touristy crap. On a trip, time really is money. As such, Fred enabled us to see far more in our abbreviated visit, making his service a great value.

The airport was, well, and airport. The wait wasn’t too miserable (though I don’t suggest arriving too early for your flight, as check-in for your flight doesn’t open until 3ish hours before your scheduled departure time and there’s not really adequate seating in the departures hall). Delta, however, did a fine job once check-in opened, and we zipped through immigration / security due to Argentina’s “got a baby? go to the front of the line” policies. The Sky Club–actually an American Express lounge–was fairly crappy… with limited offerings and broken wifi, but at least it provided a place to comfortably feed Emerson and let her play.

Our flight–I’m writing this from somewhere over northern Argentina–departed roughly on time. Emerson was a little fussy prior to take-off (which seemed to bother Libby–I didn’t give a crap, as I consider it karma / payback given my number of miles with OABs… other angry babies). :-) in any case, she was asleep before we were wheels up.

I’ll post some pictures of BA soon.

All in all, this has been a good–though not great–trip. Week #2 was markedly better with more cities (large and small) to explore. Also, I think this trip underscores a few facts about us, which I’ve always known yet been able to largely ignore. First, we cruise not so much because we love life aboard a cruise ship but because it’s an efficient (time/money/distance) way to visit a lot of new places (our current travel focus). Second, we are really independent travelers at heart… that is to say, we don’t generally/deeply interact with fellow guests aboard ship, and we prefer to forge ahead on our own when ashore, taking organized/group excursions only when more-or-less required (e.g., Egypt). Third, we really are unusual (and perhaps crazy) for attempting to travel with a child of Emerson’s age, as it does add stress, worry, and work to the trip. However, we’re so committed to travel that we’ll forge on with her, through the good (which is the majority) and bad (which is–thankfully–rare). With time, I’m sure it will become easier. And, in the end, I think/hope this will instill a love of travel and make her life more fulfilling/interesting, thereby paying dividends for years to come for her (and us).

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