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Around 7am, we arrived at Isla Hornos, which is home to the famed Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn). As the southernmost point in the Americas where the Pacific and Atlantic oceans meet, this (in)famous headland today evokes thoughts of adventure and romance from the Age of Sail. However, I doubt it was anything closely approaching romantic to those sailors. In reality, Cape Horn was the site of misery, deprivation, and terror, which claimed a thousand or more ships and many multiples of that number in terms of lives lost. Moreover, even a successful rounding of the Horn (measured in tens of kilometers east to west) would take many days—and often months—to accomplish by tacking north and south (for hundreds of kilometers in total) in order to beat into the prevailing winds.

Of course, contemplating the miseries of Cape Horn requires some imagination when you’re standing on a modern ship that’s able to circumnavigate the entire island in about an hour, which is what we did this morning. Moreover, we had exceptionally good weather… that is to say, only low clouds and mild winds (15-20mph). Clearly, this made the remote, barren island seem less treacherous. And, while Cape Horn stands proudly defiant against the tempests from the Drake Passage, I can’t say that I found the 400+ meter cliff particularly majestic. Yet, some fellow passengers seemed to differ in opinion. In fact, I heard one woman describe it as “exquisite,” making me think she was either attempting to be poetical or is just prone to hyperbole. Or, perhaps, she’s not seen that many rocks or coastlines? No matter.

Here’s a photo of Cape Horn.

Cape Horn

The rest of our day was spent like most others at sea: meals, naps, lectures, reading, etc.

Tonight was the final formal night, which we again skipped.

Today was another beautiful day in Ushuaia, though slightly cooler (in the 50s) and a good deal windier than the prior day. Nonetheless, sunny and dry—given what is typical for Ushuaia—makes for a very nice day. We mostly wandered about the town. It has an interesting vibe… aside from the language of the signage on buildings, one wouldn’t immediately think they were in South America. Instead, it feels more like a somewhat rundown alpine village filled with tourists and travelers (most of the cruise ship variety, but also of the neo-hippy, new age, and eco-tourist sorts).

Actually, Ushuaia reminds me—as crazy as this will sound—of Gatlinburg, Tennessee. But instead of being the “Gateway to the Smokey Mountains,” Ushuaia is the gateway to Antarctica. Both cities benefit from a proximity to national parks and natural scenic splendors. Both are filled with a similar mix of establishments and sights: relatively uninteresting minor museums/cultural centers, tacky tourist shops (selling all manner of themed trinkets and trash though of a “polar” vs. “hillbilly” theme), more useful “outfitter” shops (for those that came unprepared to trek to Antarctica vs. hike the Appalachian trail), and a number of low-end eating establishments. Indeed, both cities even offer sightseeing ski lifts! Thankfully, Ushuia isn’t overrun with international chain brands (which increases its charm), and it mercifully lacks a Ripley’s Believe It or Not.

Tonight, we’ll depart Ushuaia for Cape Horn, Chile. We’ll make a brief call—only a “technical stop” as passengers don’t disembark—at Puerto Williams (in Chile) in order to get our paperwork sorted out so that we are able to sail through Chilean waters. Given that we’ll be cleared by Chilean authorities, sailing through Chilean waters, and viewing Cape Horn (which is in Chile) tomorrow, I’ll have to consider whether or not we can (or should) count Chile as another country visited. While I was perfectly fine with a “sail by” of Antarctica (which is predominately made of water—which fluctuates in its state seasonally), I have more complicated feelings about what should constitute a visit to Chile, which clearly has a native culture and a permanent population of residents in its cities. However, had we flown into Ushuaia, trekked the 10 miles or so across Tierra Del Fuego National Park (or even more easily kayaked along its coast in the Beagle Channel) only to set foot on Chilean soil, and then immediately flown home: I could unquestionably have claimed a “visit” to Chile. Yet, we wouldn’t have really changed the nature of the visit in any qualitative way from what we’ve already done. That is to say, I would be no more familiar with Chilean culture or its wider geographical diversity. Moreover, we’d have skipped the brief visit to Puerto Williams, cruising the better part of the Beagle Channel, and seeing Cape Horn. This is why it’s difficult to precisely define what constitutes a “visit” to a “country” (which, as I’ve written previously, is also surprisingly difficult to define)—how much or little does one need to experience in order to have been to a place? Something to ponder…

Anyway, I’ll leave you with a picture of the Beagle Channel (and the Chilean Andes in the distance).

beagle_channel

We awoke to blissfully smooth water and found ourselves cruising through the Beagle Channel toward Ushuaia. We docked around 9am. After having our morning coffee and feeding Emerson her breakfast, we departed the ship for a catamaran tour of the Beagle Channel. In all, we spent about two hours on the tour. The highlights included a number of small islands in the channel, one of which was covered in cormorants and another covered in sea lions. Here are a couple of photos:

cormorant

sea-lion2

We enjoyed the splendid weather with mild temperatures (in the 60s) and a bright sunny, nearly cloudless sky. In the distance, we could clearly see the snow covered peaks of the southern reaches of the Andes mountain range in Chile. Argentina and Chile share the lands of Tierra del Fuego with the land border 20-30 miles west of Ushuaia. The land on the opposite side of the Beagle Channel is also part of Chile… so Chile is, needless to say, tantalizing close.

Libby and Emerson took a long nap this afternoon. Tonight, we’re going skip the buffet and return to the Trellis Dining Room for dinner. Wish us luck! :-)

Tomorrow, we’ll explore the town of Ushuaia in more depth.

Well, we’re now sailing back through the Drake Passage. Seas are running ~15-20ft with winds in the 40-50 knot range. None of this is exceptional for this part of the world, but it’s certainly atypical of what one usually experiences on a Caribbean cruise. According to reports from the bridge, the visibility in Antarctica is near zero today and with the additional approaching low pressure systems, we would have likely been delayed and/or slowed in our departure from Antarctica. This would have made making Ushuaia on Monday unlikely. At least that’s the “official” story.

However, Libby had an extended conversation with ship’s captain this morning. In that discussion, Libby (who was obviously feeling feisty) passed along my observation that Celebrity seems more willing to turn tail and run than other major cruise lines, such as Holland America (not to mention adventure/expedition ships). The captain smiled and (with a knowing wink) acknowledged that this was basically Celebrity/RCI policy, as he’s sailing under orders from headquarters to avoid bad weather in Antarctica because the company didn’t want any public relations debacles as it exits this market. I’m sure the captain wasn’t expecting this information to be disclosed on a blog—as he’d stopped Libby (a seemingly harmless mother) in order to interact with Emerson (who’s the only baby/toddler aboard the ship).

In any case, I’m not sure that the call to change course was “wrong,” though part of me wonders how many plates of milk do the serve to the officers and crew on the bridge per day.

Tomorrow we’ll be in Ushuaia. We’re looking forward to being back on solid ground. None of us have obviously suffered from motion sickness per se (unlike some fellow passengers based on the vomit bags in the stairwells), but I do think we’re all a little out of sorts and suffering a bit from “cabin fever” too.

Ugh. What a day.

After a relatively peaceful night, I awoke and flung open the curtains to see my first glimpse of Antarctica…

Fog!

I went out on deck: more fog. Port side: fog. Starboard side: fog. Fog, fog, and more (you guessed it) fog. Roughly an hour after reaching Elephant Island, the wind had increased enough to blow some of the fog away from the leeward side of the island. We were thus able to see a few of the glaciers that blanket the island (which looked, not unsurprisingly, a lot like the glaciers in Alaska). In all, we spent roughly an hour and a half in position viewing Elephant Island, departing around 9:30.

We’d intended to have breakfast in the Oceanview Café, but Emerson was apparently fussy (I’d stayed on deck maybe an extra 5 minutes). And so, by the time I’d made it to the location on Deck 10, Libby and Emerson had already departed for the cabin. I spent about 20 minutes looking for them, after which I returned to the cabin to find them there. Needless to say, I think everyone was frustrated by the circumstances.

At 10:30, the captain made an announcement that the weather conditions were expected to worsen over the next 2-3 days due to a low pressure system. Winds were expected to reach tropical storm force at between 30-40 knots. And, the seas had started to build.

At 1:30, Allan—our cruise director—made another weather related announcement. According to reports from bases near our destination, the low pressure system was intensifying and visibility along the Antarctica Peninsular was reduced to near zero. He said they’d make another announcement in an hour. But, I strongly suspected that they’d be turning us around. Needless to say, this prospect was very disappointing. As I’m writing this, I generally feel like this has been a fairly crappy trip… most has been build up to Antarctica (as the rest of the itinerary is a bit of a yawn), we’re constantly stressed about Emerson potentially bothering other guests (though she’s generally been great), and we’ve been dealing with (and worrying about) Emerson’s illness (which finally—thankfully—seems to be mostly behind us).

At 2:30, Allan confirmed what I’d suspected: that we’re, in a word, screwed. We’re now heading north back through the Drake Passage. We will be skipping our visit to the Antarctic Peninsula and spending an extra night in Tierra del Fuego. We expect the weather to continue to grow increasingly dirty with seas reaching 20-25 feet tomorrow in the Drake Passage.

Technically, we’ve made it to Antarctica, having visited Elephant Island. But, I’d be lying if I didn’t say that that feels only like small consolation after spending thousands of dollars and traveling for what will be a total of 16 days in order to spend 90 minutes with/in Antarctica. But, right now, I think that will have to do, as I’m not really that excited about the prospect of returning to this place at the end of the world.

Anyway, here’s a photo of what (little) we saw:

Elephant Island

Not sure when I’ll next post, as the weather has already crippled the television reception…

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