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In what must surely seem like a news update from the Department of Redundancy Department, we again awoke to a cloudless sky and relatively smooth sea. According to the captain, the waves are running between 7-8 feet, which is very tame for this part of the world. As the day has progressed, the sky has grown increasingly cloudy. The temperature continues to decline (high in the low 50s today). And, the sea appears to be picking up action. After we visit Elephant Island tomorrow, we’re expecting to see 15ft seas as we cruise down to the Antarctic Peninsula.

In many other ways, the day has been like those before it (and likely more to come). Breakfast in the buffet. More lectures: geology (glaciers), ecology (climate change), and zoology (penguins). The ongoing care, feeding, and napping of Emerson. Thankfully, last night was a bit better for us. Libby slept for a longer period. And, I was at least able to sleep. Otherwise, Emerson’s condition remains largely unchanged—she’s a bit more fussy and tired than usual, but otherwise she seems fine. And, the regular doses of medications are controlling her fever nicely. We’re going to skip the main dining room tonight… neither of us can deal with that again today. Sixty to ninety minutes of trying to simultaneously eat and feed/amuse a toddler is simply beyond the reach of our patience and good humor today.

I’d intended to talk about the ship (which is lovely), but I don’t feel much like writing today.

So, I won’t. :-)

Last night was a bit of a challenge. Emerson’s cold grew worse and her fever went up. We got her fever lowered, but she was restless a good bit of the night. Libby slept a little; I slept pretty much not at all. In the morning when it opened at 8am, we went to the ship’s medical center. We were quickly seen by the ship’s doctor—a nice guy from the UK—who confirmed my suspicion that she had a viral infection. No medication to prescribe… just continue with the acetaminophen and add children’s ibuprofen (which the medical center provided), as well as pumping fluids into her. This combination worked like a charm, and she seems back to normal this evening… though the doctor said it’ll likely take until Elephant Island on Saturday to get back to 100%. I’m also always impressed by the low prices (in relative terms) of medical care aboard ships: $109 (including medication).

In any case, like all such travel misadventures, I’m sure we’ll look back on this as a fond memory… “remember the first time Emerson got sick? Yeah, it was on a cruise in the southern Atlantic Ocean near the Falklands.” In the meantime, I’ll stick with my claim that Shackleton’s got nothing on us. Enduring an Antarctica winter, sailing 1300km in an open boat in some of the roughest waters in the world–I’m resoundingly unimpressed. With a toddler in tow, I doubt he would have made it out of Southampton.

In other news: today was our visit to the Falkland Islands!

We honestly weren’t sure if we’d even be able to make the port. First, the weather is often bad and ships often have to skip this port. Today’s weather was perfect: Second, with Emerson’s illness, we weren’t sure if we’d be able to go ashore with her. However, the doctor gave us permission as it certainly wouldn’t harm her. So, we got a late start (around 10:30am), but we managed to tender ashore and enjoy the day.

The Falklands have a rugged beauty. The islands are literally barraged by winds, making them nearly devoid of trees. They’re also fairly dry and cold, not unlike Antarctica itself. Our primary mission here was to see penguins up close and personal, as many of the other destinations have penguins but at a much greater distance. However, based on the (incorrect) guidance of the ship’s travel guide, it seemed that this might be near impossible to do independently. Fortunately, this advice was misguided. I was able to hire a taxi to take us out to Gypsy Cove ($60 w/ tip for the three of us vs. $125+/pp for the ship’s penguin tours), where we were able to view Magellanic penguins. It was great!

My friend Brett’s daughter, Lottie, asked me to take a picture of a penguin for her.

So, here it is, delivered as promised, Lottie:

Penguin in Falklands

We returned to the town of Stanley, a quaint little place overrun with tourists (the two ships’ passenger counts today were double that of the total population of the Falklands). We both really liked the Falklands, though I can’t imagine living there. The islands have two schools, one for lower and one for upper grades. There are no traffic lights on the Falklands. If medical care is required for serious / complex illnesses, patients are evacuated to either Santiago, Chile or back to the United Kingdom. The people are amazingly friendly with a British sensibility without the same sense of reserve.

Tonight, we’re now bound for the Antarctica. Tomorrow’s the Drake Passage.

Note: if you’re interested in our current sea conditions, click on the “Wave Height!” page above. It has been very smooth to date, but tomorrow we’ll see if it’s Drake Shake or Drake Lake. :-)

Country Count: +1 (Falkland Islands)

Cruise Day #3: At Sea

We again awoke to a cloudless sky and smooth sea. As we’ve been traveling south, the temperature has been dropping slightly, though it’s still very comfortable.

As is our routine, we had an early breakfast in the Oceanview Café. We spent some time walking about the decks. Libby then attended a lecturer on the Falklands, while I took Emerson back to the cabin for her morning nap. The Falklands talk provided a good introduction to the history of islands, including the 1982 conflict with Argentina. Based on the discussion, Libby’s more excited about visiting this outpost of the United Kingdom – seems like it should be very quaint. In theory, this should be our best (as in easiest) port to see penguins, but I’m not sure how that will work out since the shore excursions sold out long before our departure. So, we’re on our own. Hopefully, we’ll be able to get a shuttle bus or taxi… otherwise we might be walking the 8 miles (roundtrip).

This afternoon Emerson developed a low grade fever. This wasn’t entirely unexpected as one of her vaccinations last Monday can result in a fever 5-10 later. This was day #8. However, she also seems to have a bit of a runny nose. So, we’re thinking she might have a mild cold. In any case, a little baby acetaminophen knocked the fever down (though not completely out). Needless to say, we’ll keep a close eye on her and make sure she’s bundled up, but I think she’ll be back to 100% quickly.

We went back to the main dining room tonight for dinner. Libby had the Caribbean cod cakes (good), cream of corn chowder (bland and bad), and NY strip steak (good). I had the shrimp cocktail (flavorful… and unlike many lines’ main dining rooms, not baby shrimp), French onion soup (best ever in a cruise main dining room; respectable overall; and grilled wahoo (decent but unremarkable; could have been warmer). Service, however, was very good for Libby and me (e.g., drink preferences remembered, etc.), as well as Emerson (e.g., high chair ready, table set appropriately, special food brought out, origami frog made at the table, etc.).

I have to say, the Celebrity staff seems to really enjoy Emerson’s presence and treats us very well. Of course, we’re fairly certain that she’s the onlytoddler on the ship, and there appears to be only one other kid under the age of five on this cruise. That said, our fellow passengers have a mixed reaction to our presence. Many (likely those with kids and grandkids) seem to enjoy seeing her. Some consider us brave (and have said so). Far more likely think we’re crazy (perhaps not unfairly). And, a few just give us (undeserved) dirty looks. In truth, traveling with a baby isn’t always carefree or easy. Indeed, sometimes it feels a bit like work. But, Emerson’s been an angel for us, and we think these early experiences (even if she doesn’t recall them) will make future travels with her easier and more rewarding. Plus, I especially enjoy the opportunity to spend unfettered time with her for long stretches of time (as work demands at home mean that often don’t see her everyday for 2+ weeks, let alone spend 24×7 with her).

I’d planned to talk about the ship today. But, that’ll have to wait for our next day at sea.

Tomorrow is the Falkland Islands, and I expect the day to be busy!

Cruise Day #3: At Sea Q&A

On past cruises, I’ve done Q&A’s on days at sea. So, post whatever questions you might have on the ship, itinerary, etc… and I’ll reply to them (as best I can) on Day #5 (after the Falklands).

Cruise Day #2: At Sea

Now I’m having wireless access problems today. Basically just an uneventful day at sea… sunny, cloudless skies and smooth seas.

Will update this tomorrow when I can get the WiFi working again.

————————————————————–

UPDATED (WiFi Now Working):

After sailing through the Plata most of the night, we awoke to a clear and sunny sky in the southern Atlantic Ocean. The seas are (currently) smooth, running 4-5ft.

We had breakfast in the Oceanview Cafe, which is Infinity’s buffet. The food presentation, selection variety, and passenger flow (around “action stations”) are all good. The actual quality/taste seems to be a bit uneven. For example, the waffle station is one of the best at sea with a wide variety of toppings (e.g., lemon cream cheese, butter cream, orange cream, whipped cream… not to mention equally copious amounts of fruits, nuts, and sauces). By contrast, the potatoes we’ve eaten—both at breakfast and lunch yesterday—were, umm, “al dente.” No bueno.

After breakfast and a stop for gourmet coffee, we returned to our cabin to allow Emerson to play and (later) take her morning nap.

Between transferring to the ship and getting settled yesterday, I didn’t have much of a chance to talk about the Celebrity Infinity and our accommodations. I’ll talk about the ship tomorrow, but I’ll describe our cabin now. In a word: spacious. We’re in cabin #6001. It’s an ocean view stateroom (large, round window, but no balcony) at the very front of the ship that looks forward out over the bow. Based on my research, I understood that #6001 was larger than typical staterooms with more far more indoor floor space than even a balcony cabin. It was also ~$800/pp. less at the time of booking. So, we’ve gotten more (room) for less (money). Even with Emerson’s pack ‘n play, there’s plenty of floor space for her to play and us to move around. There’s also more than ample storage. Admittedly Libby and I are light packers (no formal night for us!), but we have unused drawers and cabinet space – even with all of the baby paraphernalia. The décor is tasteful: light wood tones, bronze/gold and blue fabrics. And, it feels suitably nautical. Infinity is due for dry dock in November, and I’ve heard others describe her as being a bit threadbare and in need of a refresh. Perhaps that’s true compared to other X ships, but I’d say that she compares very well to ships we’ve experienced in NCL’s, RCI’s, and HAL’s fleets. Here’s a photo of the cabin:

Cabin #6001

Back to today…

At 10am, while Emerson napped with Libby, I attended a “Celebrity Life” event – a geologist from the Smithsonian Institute, Jim Zimbelman, gave a talk about the geology (what else?) of South America and Antarctica. It was an informative talk with interesting factoids, like Antarctica is the premier source for collecting meteorites on Earth.

We went to the art history lecture at noon. The lecturer, the ship’s art auctioneer, was… well… pretty much a moron. Left early. Took the complimentary mimosa with me.

At 1pm, Emerson and I went to lunch while Libby attended a lecture on whales. The whale talk was very good (I caught a re-run on TV). It was delivered by a humorous British biologist… more (probably useless, but interesting) factoids. As for lunch, E and I ate a steak sandwich with peppers, onions, and mushrooms. Yes, this is what I fed to a baby. What can I say? She has to learn sometime. And, she liked it.

At 3:15, I went to a geography talk delivered by an Australian physicist. It was marginally amusing, but it lacked the substance of the presentations from domain experts. And, truth be told, I probably could have delivered it better, which makes me think I need to get a port lecturer gig in retirement. :-)

Tonight was formal night in the main dining room, which we skipped. Instead, we went back to the buffet for dinner. It was blissfully devoid of other patrons, thereby allowing us to eat without fearing that Emerson would suddenly turn into a disgruntled howler monkey.

Tomorrow’s another day at sea… I’ll plan to talk a bit more about the ship then.

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